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OK, so when i bought a XF 1908 "s" IHC, It peeked my interest in filling an old album.
turns out I have most post 1900's in vf or better.

1st, when filling an album, should I try to match most coins in about the same grade and/or color tone?
or if i'm spending $20 or so on a vg 1860's should I spend an equal amount for a xf or better 1900's?
right now I'm thinking 1 album for my best coins, and another for lesser coins.

2nd, when I'm looking at an online pricing guide, are those prices supposed to reflect raw or graded coins ?
whaat does the graysheet mean "bid"??
i think it's supposed to be what a dealer will offer another dealer on a coin he specifically wants,
but that same dealler has to offer me less if I bring coins to him,
He is entitled to a decent profit and the bid ask spread seems very small to me.
if I spend a lot of time watching, looking, sniping and advertising craigslist, I seem to be able to buy cheaper.
I do know the difference in a vf coin and one with vf details.

3rd, Is it a "no-no" to put one of these coins in an album.
[ rim dings, corrosion, scratched,or even the big one HOLED? ]

I'm sure I have more ?? that i can't remember right now, so any other advice is appreciated.
J1G

justoneguy wrote:OK, so when i bought a XF 1908 "s" IHC, It peeked my interest in filling an old album.
turns out I have most post 1900's in vf or better.

1st, when filling an album, should I try to match most coins in about the same grade and/or color tone?
or if i'm spending $20 or so on a vg 1860's should I spend an equal amount for a xf or better 1900's?
right now I'm thinking 1 album for my best coins, and another for lesser coins.

2nd, when I'm looking at an online pricing guide, are those prices supposed to reflect raw or graded coins ?
whaat does the graysheet mean "bid"??
i think it's supposed to be what a dealer will offer another dealer on a coin he specifically wants,
but that same dealler has to offer me less if I bring coins to him,
He is entitled to a decent profit and the bid ask spread seems very small to me.
if I spend a lot of time watching, looking, sniping and advertising craigslist, I seem to be able to buy cheaper.
I do know the difference in a vf coin and one with vf details.

3rd, Is it a "no-no" to put one of these coins in an album.
[ rim dings, corrosion, scratched,or even the big one HOLED? ]

I'm sure I have more ?? that i can't remember right now, so any other advice is appreciated.
J1G

#1: This is totally up to you. I personally try to have coins all around the same grade, but some coins you just can't because they are either to expensive or don't exist. Do what you like.

#2 Greysheet is what most coin dealers use for priceing. www.greysheet.com You can subscribe or buy your own. Greysheet bid is what the coin "should" be worth. Selling to a dealer you normally get under bid. Buying you pay bid or slightly above. There are many factors that come into play though. Ie: rarity, toning, eye appeal, ect.

VF means very fine. VF details mean not quite VF, but close.

#3. Once again it comes down to your opinion. Damaged coins normally carry a huge discount, so personally I would avoid putting them into the album.

justoneguy wrote:OK, so when i bought a XF 1908 "s" IHC, It peeked my interest in filling an old album.

Way to go, that's a nice coin. I'd like to see it!

justoneguy wrote:when filling an album, should I try to match most coins in about the same grade and/or color tone? or if i'm spending $20 or so on a vg 1860's should I spend an equal amount for a xf or better 1900's? right now I'm thinking 1 album for my best coins, and another for lesser coins.

That last thought sounds good. Of course, with YOUR collection, you're the boss. Some people build a set with the first one they come across, then continue to upgrade one coin at a time over and over for years. Some people take years just to build the nice set in the first place, holding out for that great looking specimen. Others, like me, just start a different collection!

justoneguy wrote:2nd, when I'm looking at an online pricing guide, are those prices supposed to reflect raw or graded coins? what does the graysheet mean "bid"?? i think it's supposed to be what a dealer will offer another dealer on a coin he specifically wants, but that same dealler has to offer me less if I bring coins to him, He is entitled to a decent profit and the bid ask spread seems very small to me.

You've pretty much got it straight. I have always assumed they mean raw unless you're talking about very specific high-end grades such as MS64RB. Of course, whether it is encapsulated or not, it's still just the same coin, so in theory the prices should be the same. Know what I mean? BID is what dealers typically offer to pay. ASK is what dealers typically expect to sell their coins for. Greysheet, as with ANY price guide, is just a GUIDE though. Different types of dealers will have different spreads. Some buy very low and can in turn sell very low. Others have high-rent property etc and all those things of course affect that spread.

justoneguy wrote:if I spend a lot of time watching, looking, sniping and advertising craigslist, I seem to be able to buy cheaper.

Patience pays off. For many, it's not worth the time. Always be careful, and always know more than the other person in the transaction. Take the time to become the expert in whatever it is you are buying or selling. That's the meaning behind the age-old saying "buy the book before you buy the coin."

justoneguy wrote:3rd, Is it a "no-no" to put one of these coins in an album. [rim dings, corrosion, scratched,or even the big one HOLED? ]

As said before, it's really going to be up to you. Is it a hobby or a passion? Is it only fun to finish the set or do you enjoy the whole process? One has said, "They joy is in the journey." And I'm having trouble finding the exact quote, but another has said that there is more joy in pursuit than in possession. I've found the fun way to respond to that, in terms of collecting coins, is to build a set or collection of some sort, then sell it and start on something else.

Ok, so you're putting together a set of coins for personal satisfaction? If so, like many, you do it because you love this verity of coin. There is just something about it that you really admire. Start putting together a string of dates and mints and when you look at it you admire it even more. As least, I sure do. So I collect the best grade I can afford. The better the grade and visual aesthetics the more I like looking at the coins. Once a set is complete or almost complete the pride of having accomplished begins to take hold and I start looking at the one or ones I would start upgrading as well as when it will be possible to do so.

But, buying and selling price seem to be involved here you may be looking to put this set together to sell it later. The only advise I have for this is buy the best you can get for the least possible and sell high. Well, regardless the reasons you are putting this set together you are getting a numismatic education and an eye for grading and value so carry on Sir.

I try to fill the holes first, with the best deal I can find, whether that is an ms-60 1/2 off or a g-4 half off. After I have all of the holes filled I then upgrade.

1st, when filling an album, should I try to match most coins in about the same grade and/or color tone?
or if i'm spending $20 or so on a vg 1860's should I spend an equal amount for a xf or better 1900's?
right now I'm thinking 1 album for my best coins, and another for lesser coins.

Matched sets are nice; Looks and/or grades. Massive undertakings such as a morgan set allow one to have beautiful fully struck Mint State Carson City coins along side honest evenly circulated keys. A set of Peace dollars (one of the sexiest coins made) can be had in nice even white AU-MS quality for a fair price. The fun with that series is finding nicely struck and uncleaned examples. A type set of a series is a bunch of fun and allows more flexibility with matching both in esthetics and technical grade. Here is a picture of my Mint state Seated New Orleans collection:

2nd, when I'm looking at an online pricing guide, are those prices supposed to reflect raw or graded coins ?
whaat does the graysheet mean "bid"??
i think it's supposed to be what a dealer will offer another dealer on a coin he specifically wants,
but that same dealler has to offer me less if I bring coins to him,
He is entitled to a decent profit and the bid ask spread seems very small to me.
if I spend a lot of time watching, looking, sniping and advertising craigslist, I seem to be able to buy cheaper.
I do know the difference in a vf coin and one with vf details.

Use price guides as price guides. Some examples call for more money....some call for less. I have found that good coins are rarely cheap and that cheap coins are rarely good.

3rd, Is it a "no-no" to put one of these coins in an album.
[ rim dings, corrosion, scratched,or even the big one HOLED? ]

If you like it and it makes sense in your collection plug away. If you don't like it and are just looking to fill a hole....well that's no fun....and coin collecting is supposed to be fun. 95% of the fun I have is in the hunt. 3% is in the acquisition, and 2% in ownership. (ownership is only fun because I look at my coins often, take pictures, and continue to compare them to available examples)