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Been running my Used Ryedale a few days now. I really had to lube it up with Dri Slide the first use to get it running without a jam. I figured once it was lubed decent it wouldn't need for about 50,000 pennies according to what I been reading on maintenance. However I need to reapply Dri Slide before every use, whether it be 20,000 or just 100. I'm storing the Ryedale in my garage which is pretty toasty and I cover it will a plastic bag to keep out the dust. Is that causing the Dri Slide to dry out faster? I don't mind reapplying every use but eventually it'll cost me money in Dri Slide.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Henchman

I usually clean the slide first with alcohol then apply the dri slide. Its a good idea to cover it up though.

Are you taking the wheel off as well as the little black peice that covers the SnP?

Check out Andy's website because I think he has some videos on there showing you how to do it.

I apply one drop to mine before EACH use. I use the bottle with the needle. I have 4 Ryedales and have been using the same bottle since 2008.

If you don't want to lube it as often, wait until you have a bigger batch to run.

I reapply before each $100 sort. I generally sort in $100 increments. I sort for zinc first, then resort the coppers changing the reference penny. I wouldn't worry about the cost of dry-slide. The initial bottle may seem costly, but it will last a LONG time. The dry-slide bottle with the long needle is best.

Henchman wrote:Been running my Used Ryedale a few days now. I really had to lube it up with Dri Slide the first use to get it running without a jam. I figured once it was lubed decent it wouldn't need for about 50,000 pennies according to what I been reading on maintenance. However I need to reapply Dri Slide before every use, whether it be 20,000 or just 100. I'm storing the Ryedale in my garage which is pretty toasty and I cover it will a plastic bag to keep out the dust. Is that causing the Dri Slide to dry out faster? I don't mind reapplying every use but eventually it'll cost me money in Dri Slide.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Henchman

See the rest of the comments, which I echo. Just a further comment - dry-slide doesn't really dry out, a hot garage shouldn't matter in that respect - the medium that it is suspended in is only a convenience to help in the application, but once the solvent evaporates the lubrication mechanism is still there, which is powdered molybdenum disulfide.

You'll also need to scrub the wheel, clean the bed it rotates on, and perhaps most importantly clean the clear plastic slide and the chute into the comparator (with a q-tip) - those are the parts that cause the most jams when dirty, and it will get dirty fast. And the gunk that accumulates is probably stickier in a hot and/or humid environment than a cool/dry one, so you might see more jams from that issue when hot and/or humid.

Thanks for the comments. I will just keep cleaning and applying since that seems common place. I rather apply more lubricant then deal with jams. I have the big bottle so I'm sure it'll last. Just got a big pickup of pennies today. Time to lube er up and slam $500 down her chute. Now only if my wife would let me do that every now and then.

Cheers,
Henchman

68Camaro wrote:

Henchman wrote:Been running my Used Ryedale a few days now. I really had to lube it up with Dri Slide the first use to get it running without a jam. I figured once it was lubed decent it wouldn't need for about 50,000 pennies according to what I been reading on maintenance. However I need to reapply Dri Slide before every use, whether it be 20,000 or just 100. I'm storing the Ryedale in my garage which is pretty toasty and I cover it will a plastic bag to keep out the dust. Is that causing the Dri Slide to dry out faster? I don't mind reapplying every use but eventually it'll cost me money in Dri Slide.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Henchman

See the rest of the comments, which I echo. Just a further comment - dry-slide doesn't really dry out, a hot garage shouldn't matter in that respect - the medium that it is suspended in is only a convenience to help in the application, but once the solvent evaporates the lubrication mechanism is still there, which is powdered molybdenum disulfide.

You'll also need to scrub the wheel, clean the bed it rotates on, and perhaps most importantly clean the clear plastic slide and the chute into the comparator (with a q-tip) - those are the parts that cause the most jams when dirty, and it will get dirty fast. And the gunk that accumulates is probably stickier in a hot and/or humid environment than a cool/dry one, so you might see more jams from that issue when hot and/or humid.

68Camaro,

Do you put anything on the Q-tip to make it moist?

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