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Had a couple binder sheets worth of peace dollars come in today, the image was off, and the toning was similar to most fakes i've seen. Hard to describe but I've handled enough now to have a "funny feeling" that's usually right.

Other hint was it had both a 21 and a 28 in a lot of about 30 total coins, along with multiple 27's 34's and 35's etc. normal distribution is like 1 of those coins per page at most and its usualy the 34/35

Anyway I threw it on my sigma, didn't pass, threw it on a magnet, no stick (so pass) threw it on my magnet slide, maybe 5% faster slide than a genuine, definitely not enough faster sliding that had I not already been sus I would have assumed it was a pass... Weight was a touch low 26g, which is too low for the low wear. thickness test didn't pass, but not spectacularly

I've never had a fake pass the magnet slide before. IDK if its something new.


I kept one as a sample. returned rest to seller.

Anyway IDK if this is a new development, and I haven't spoken on here for years but felt I should warn y'all. IDK when I'll be back on to answer follow-ups but I will when I do mosey on back the site again.

Best of luck out there, and be careful.

Mike, Instant cash for gold and diamonds

Good to see you post again and thanks for the heads up. Could you tell if the seller had been scammed or if he was trying to scam you?

Seller is known and trustworthy, he buys at the local library of a rather rural area outside my area and brings the stuff to me since he lacks the volume to deal directly with refiners, and this one he claims she was a retiree which I also believe, and she has had them for 60 years (a bit skeptical on that as the fakes were A. too good B. contained a bunch of common dates too, there was no need to counterfeit common peace dollars in 1965). I suspect her husband got scammed prior to his passing, but probably in a year that starts with 20xx.

I also tested XRF 90+ pct total was brass (copper/zinc) 1.5% AG trace of a dozen other metals

Tested with 18k acid test and didn't pass either.

Also just had that ugly look that I associate with fakes, the face is just off, for lack of a better explaination it just looks evil. lol

Hey Look, you joined the day after me

Also to be noted I was trying to show the seller the magnet slide so he could have that knowledge for the future and have a cheaper (and I thought pretty bulletproof) test than XRF or Sigma. I don't normally use the magnet slide as my go to, its just a toy that I have available sometimes.

Were any of the other alloy elements Magnetic?

Yeah, no way are they more than 20 years old.

Lead and copper will both slow down on a magnet slide, but not as much as silver. Calculating the density from the weight and volume of the coin, and checking the measurement number on the Sigma, might provide clues as to which it is.

Thanks for the heads up! And glad to see you post again!

Here is the top things I look at/for...

1. Motto and spacing of letters
2. Magnet test
3. Weight
4. Luster/lack of
5. Ping test
6. Rim/edges

68Camaro wrote:Were any of the other alloy elements Magnetic?

Short answer, only trace amounts if any of Iron/nickel <1%:


I can't put my finger on the item right now, and my gun doesn't have a printer so its all from memory: but it was a typical (dirty) white brass combination, ~60% Copper, ~30% Zinc, 1.5% AG, and a bunch of what I would refer to as "pot metal contaminants" 1% this and 1% that, very well likely was maybe 1% or less nickel and iron each. There was also trace Lead I do recall for sure, I think i little tin... Sorry I don't pay attention to the contaminants my decisions rely on if its silver/gold as advertised, once I see its not my mind just moves on, its a fake.

Cu Penny Hoarder wrote:Here is the top things I look at/for...

1. Motto and spacing of letters
2. Magnet test
3. Weight
4. Luster/lack of
5. Ping test
6. Rim/edges

All great tests: I need to work on my skills on 1 and 6 but good stuff