Silver chart

[Jonflyfish]

Steady as she goes- smooth as butter...

Steady_as_she_goes2.png (129.89 KiB) Viewed 1301 times

[neilgin1]

i've been in the markets almost 30 years now, made more bone headed fu's than i care to admit. i've blown out twice, others times i've done 1000% in some years, bing bang boom.

but i'll tell ya what, these metal markets are for real bulls, long term too. Scary long term, because if things really go wild, dont think for a second you won't see exchange defaults, force majuere's, POSSIBLE legislation making private PM holdings illegal.........possible....and ETF's?.....i wouldnt touch an ETF, after 30 years in the markets, i dont trust anything, or anybody.....especially paper backed by the faith and word of some pencil necked quant madoff wannabe.

and its not just PM's...check ever single commodity...BULL...one glaring exception, LUMBER.

thats why i think, that if you have any decent PM holdings, the next BIG dollar you spend, arable land with woodlots. Food insecurity is coming to America. just my two copper mites

[TXBullion]

whats next jonflyfish? You had that great successful call a while back

[Treetop]

thats why i think, that if you have any decent PM holdings, the next BIG dollar you spend, arable land with woodlots. Food insecurity is coming to America. just my two copper mites

ANY land, I repeat ANY land is arable with the right knowledge. In fact I say go where everyone KNOWS its not arable, and make it so. I am 100 percent serious. This is my field of study. Ive devoted years to this, and this alone. If your willing to do the work you can do it nearly anywhere. Theres work involved to maximize the potentials of a dry place with poor soil, but such knowledge exists. Ive collected it from far and wide. It takes work either way. But with some cash you can get good results faster. but with the right knowledge and a pocket full of the RIGHT seeds, some good hand tools (or other stuff if you have the cash) you can make nearly any land fertile, in time.

Heres the thing though, once you do the initial work, which is no small task, it can be as fertile, and nearly as productive as anywhere else. In fact MORE productive then you average mono culture, but not as productive as a truly integrated system in an area starting out fertile and wet. without the bulk of the work needing to be redone. Ive been studying perma culture, agro forestry, and various methods cultures across the planet and time have used. Learn to maximize each and every variable of a given location, how to work micro climates etc. At this level it can only be called terra forming. Ive studied soil building(microbial life) water retention and direction, how a forest or prairie evolves over time, how atmosphere will interact with the soil and the water table. the science is there, but im not aware of anyone who has put it together fully. People are stuck into old frameworks. We could make the whole earth a eden in a generation. the fear mongers want to preach desertification, we could end it with a pocket of seeds. Do not doubt me. Mainly Ive been focused on my specific variables of course. but such knowledge and understandings will work anywhere, your plant list may be different is all.

Where will people flee in such times? To the same fertile wooded lands to which you refer.

[Sheikh_yer_Bu'Tay]

thats why i think, that if you have any decent PM holdings, the next BIG dollar you spend, arable land with woodlots. Food insecurity is coming to America. just my two copper mites

ANY land, I repeat ANY land is arable with the right knowledge. In fact I say go where everyone KNOWS its not arable, and make it so. I am 100 percent serious. This is my field of study. Ive devoted years to this, and this alone. If your willing to do the work you can do it nearly anywhere. Theres work involved to maximize the potentials of a dry place with poor soil, but such knowledge exists. Ive collected it from far and wide. It takes work either way. But with some cash you can get good results faster. but with the right knowledge and a pocket full of the RIGHT seeds, some good hand tools (or other stuff if you have the cash) you can make nearly any land fertile, in time.

Heres the thing though, once you do the initial work, which is no small task, it can be as fertile, and nearly as productive as anywhere else. In fact MORE productive then you average mono culture, but not as productive as a truly integrated system in an area starting out fertile and wet. without the bulk of the work needing to be redone. Ive been studying perma culture, agro forestry, and various methods cultures across the planet and time have used. Learn to maximize each and every variable of a given location, how to work micro climates etc. At this level it can only be called terra forming. Ive studied soil building(microbial life) water retention and direction, how a forest or prairie evolves over time, how atmosphere will interact with the soil and the water table. the science is there, but im not aware of anyone who has put it together fully. People are stuck into old frameworks. We could make the whole earth a eden in a generation. the fear mongers want to preach desertification, we could end it with a pocket of seeds. Do not doubt me. Mainly Ive been focused on my specific variables of course. but such knowledge and understandings will work anywhere, your plant list may be different is all.

Where will people flee in such times? To the same fertile wooded lands to which you refer.

True, but also the fleeing masses will attack anyone who has more than they have. If you slave away to build up something, they will try to take it away from you, no matter where it is.

Interesting post. To a lesser degree, I have done it, too, on a small scale. Start a new thread and list your resources. I am looking to buy land right now.

[Treetop]

that depends greatly. where my land is, its known you cant farm, and there is no water..... Yet i know how to thrive there. Its 40 miles from any town, and anyone fleeing the town wouldnt head out into no mans land looking for non existent food or water. They would head into the areas known to have game and water, or towards the river.

By list resources you want me to list the info that makes this possible? that isnt easy. Its in my head. there is no single source, or a series of them for that matter. Ive been building such a system for several years now. As far as I know Ive taken such management and accounting of variables to new extremes.....

[HelloMeteor]

that depends greatly. where my land is, its known you cant farm, and there is no water..... Yet i know how to thrive there. Its 40 miles from any town, and anyone fleeing the town wouldnt head out into no mans land looking for non existent food or water. They would head into the areas known to have game and water, or towards the river.

By list resources you want me to list the info that makes this possible? that isnt easy. Its in my head. there is no single source, or a series of them for that matter. Ive been building such a system for several years now. As far as I know Ive taken such management and accounting of variables to new extremes.....

Write a book!

[Treetop]

I don't have any credentials. The thought process of fully accounting for all manipulatable variables would be useful anywhere. Along with other aspects, but many of the specific things, would be more location based in their usefulness. Besides, Ive got a lot of things on my plate as it is....

[Beau]

.
TREETOP QUOTE"
Ive got a lot of things on my plate as it is.

we want a lot of things on our plate when it comes that time, an empty plate is something I don`t want.

[Treetop]

some very basic pointers for the non gardener with points you wont always hear, this is in no way a complete guide.....

Start collecting organic matter. Manure from a local ranch. Leaves from the sidewalks and your yard. Grass clippings. Tables scraps. Put it in big piles in the back yard, just like your saving PMs. Working a soil into fertility takes a lot of organic matter. you could also grow it, lots of directions to go on that for longer term set ups. TALL perennial grasses, you can harvest compostable material from yearly. Many types of trees and bushes, that have lots of build up of quality material, along with food. that is the first key, having organic matter to build a fertile soil from. along with ensuring you have enough long into the future......

then you have retaining fertility a subject often ignored, as most focus on simply adding new organic matter or synthetic ferts yearly. For this there are many many things, to keep it simple and effective, look into biochar. simple charcoalized wood, and other materials. The charcoal does several things. It gives the soil microbes a place to THRIVE. It retains minerals, and other aspects of fertility as well. it also ends up over time retain the soils carbon content even increasing it slowly. Something nothing else does. along with regulating the water to some degree..... charcoalizing wood if you have the wood, isnt to hard. You then need to "charge" it. soak it for 48 hours in "compost tea" (look it up) or another organic fertilizer, urine if you have nothings else. which is high in nitrogen. If you dont charge the charcoal first, it will instead of doing all the things listed above, will draw fertility out of the soil, until it starts doing as I was saying. It is WELL worth doing this, for the soil of the entire garden. It will last in the soil the rest of your life, and its effects are powerful. Retaining fertility, building carbon, offering a home to biota, regulating water.... theres just nothing like it.

then you need water of course. this topic is a tricky one. to wide to give an easy answer. If your area is real wet, dont worry... If it is dry though, this is a huge topic. It becomes retaining water, as much as anything. Perennial plants, trees and bushes are also great. get started NOW. At least once established, these will if you get the right ones ride through the dry periods. Mulch becomes mandatory. Your leaves, or grasses and such are great for this. also rocks mulches over the organic matter one, they serve different aspects, and together can take my area which retains less then 50 percent of the precipitation or less, to 80-90 percent. So simply saving whats there takes me to essentially having 60-80 percent more water. more work, but if water is scarce it is worth a it more time pushing around the rocks. Keep a constant cover over your garden soil. even in the off season. whether is consists of the mulch or dead plants over winter.... this does many things, to much to list. the most basic is simply retaining the water, and biota in the soil. wind dries a soil out as much as anything, another thing to keep in mind. this is a huge topic, so I cant get to deep into it, but this is often over looked, so i figured something good to expound upon.

Is water an issue and does most of yours come in winter as mine does? well then grow winter grains, rye, wheat, barley... and legumes, i had to scour for them, and got them from seed banks, but i now have winter peas, and lentils.

then there is presprouting seeds. In a wet paper towel or even mosses, or leaves, or even digging down into a wet spot in your compost pile, and keeping them there until the are swelling. Lots of ways to do this. then you could also start the plants early, gives a boost on the season, but you also get the plants going with much lower water needs. then there is also, once your soil is built up, and youve got a mulch and pebbles cover over winter, even if its been dry for a long period, when you pull back the rocks and mulch if your soil on top isnt damp, dig down to where it is, put your swelled, sprouted or small plants there..... Lots of other info out there on this as I said, but the aspects i laid out you wont find as often, and can work in extreme cases. the way elevation even inches alter how a soil retain or collects fallen water is another topic to study, the use o berms is a science by itself...... You can get rather labor intensive, but this can ensure a good crop where otherwise you couldnt do it.

the MOST important.... and most often over looked is LOCALLY adapted seeds. get them now. this part can be tricky depending on where you live. If you live in a place with a rich agricultural history, it will be easy. If like me that doesnt exist, you might have to do some trialing or breeding out of the best candidates.

Breeding plants, certain kinds anyway doesnt have to be hard. Let me try to keep this simple. Two main classes of plants, inbreeders and outbreeders. With outbreeders, like corn, and squash, and melons.... these you could simply get the ones most likely to do well for you, and the first year, save seeds from the best varieties, letting the insects freely cross them together for you. Presuming that the specific fruits you save seed from were pollinated from a differet variety, you will then have a hybrid, it will have traits from both parents. this year, you might want to save some seed from each plant of the various hybrids, the reason being this is the F1 year. If you crossed the same two parent varieties together keeping the same ones the "mother" or "father"(mother being the plant you took the fruit from the father being the pollen donating plant) the next year though when you grow out saved seeds from a hybrid, instead of a repeatable direct mix of both parents, you will see all the variation of the parent lines. at this point save seed from the best plants, each year... simple as that, and in time youll have a locally adapted variety. with inbreeding plants like wheat, or tomatoes, or beans, you would have to purposely pollinate them at specific times. their flowers will pollinate themselves with or without insect or wind pollination.

One good way to do this without the hassle, if you dont have known proven varieties, is to get HYBRIDS that are likely to do well in your area. the first year save seed from many plants, the second start saving seed from the best plants, at this time youll have variation show up, representing the genetics of both parents. this will work with inbreeding or outbreeding plants. Dont listen to the yokels who tell you you cant save seed from a hybrid. you cant save STABLE seed, meaning its not a stabilized variety. this is a GOOD thing, if your in a area with tough conditions, and dont have proven varieties. Because by the simply act of saving seed from the best plants, in time youll have your own stable line, with the traits you need, and be producing food in the meantime of course.

this is a drop in the bucket obviously, but maybe it will get people thinking.

some over looked plants trees and bushes....

siberian pea shrub. this shrub fixes nitrogen. It also grows pretty fast since it fixes nitrogen, and is very drought tolerant once established. It produces 5-10 pounds of EDIBLE seeds a year. they are basically like a bland bean, 36 percent protein makes a great supplement to animal feeds as well, and make a great hedge row to.

honey locusts. the seed pods can be used for sugar production, but not easily, also an animal feed. the also make a serviceable bean replacement. Not as good as the first i listed, but this grows anywhere, and fast. also if you got a patch of 20 of them going, at 10 years old, you can sustainably harvest quality fire wood, from them. so its a good tree to have around and is often over looked.

amaranth. In fertile prepared soil, there are varieties you can get a pound of seed per plant. not terribly versatile of a grain, but very healthy. The leaves are also edible, you can eat some as the plant is growing as well. Not many leafy greens for the summer months. It WILL naturalize in your yard, although wont reach its full glory in unamended soil, its a nice bonus though.

seaberries, goumi, autumn olives, and silverberries these all fix nitrogen, and are fast growers. the fruits on some are tasty other need sweetened, but they are all VERY nutrient dense.

dandelions, purslane, and plantain. Many many other wild edibles, but these ones are all VERY easy to grow, and nutrient dense. purslane is a source of omega 3s as well....

[Jonflyfish]

whats next jonflyfish? You had that great successful call a while back

Thanks for the kind compliment. However, as a trader, over the years I've learned that even a blind chicken will find an ear of corn every now and then.

Otherwise it looks as though the market is poised to surge higher yet again.

Cheers!

[Jonflyfish]

All impulse offer cycles are being met with strong bids.
Silver is about to surge much higher.

[Rodebaugh]

All impulse offer cycles are being met with strong bids.
Silver is about to surge much higher.

I trust you.......you have been on it before

What kinda time frame and walk up are you thinking?

[TXBullion]

Yes Jonflyfish, please help me direct my buying activity!

[Jonflyfish]

Rodebaugh & TXBullion-

Thank you for the kind words. While I can be 100% wrong just like any other, it would appear that within the next few sessions the trend resumes towards the $32-34 barrier.
Nice long base (The longer the base, the higher into space) with bids overcoming all offer cycles continue unabated.
Happy Holidays!

[Jonflyfish]

Looks like the offers are nearly flushed out. It won't be long now...

[appjoe]

I use a compost barrel and put all our table scraps in it along with coffee grounds with the filter. I also shread our daily newspaper and add that to it. I also add all our grass clippings and leaves. Now you said about compost tea. I think that is one of the best things you can make and a little goes along way. When my compost is ready for the garden I take a few handsful of it and add it to a 5 gallon bucket of rain water (no chlorine )then I add some molasses and some dirt out of the garden I have a airstone hooked up to a airpump from a fish tank and let it bubble for a few days until there is alot of foam on top ( some people add hydrogen peroxide instead of a airpump to oxygenate the water) then it's ready to use 5 gallons can do a couple acres. When you add it you can see a big difference in the garden.

[Treetop]

Yeah compost tea is great stuff. you dont NEED to add molasses, but it does feed the soil microbes then you have more of them.

You also dont NEED to oxygenate the water although if you can it is much better as well. But if you didnt have electricity lets say, you could just fill your 5 gallon bucket with the compost and water, and stir it around a few times throughout a day, and use it like that. If you have the option do what your doing. Just thought Id throw that out there, so people know its beneficial even if you dont have all the components to make to its peak.

[Jonflyfish]

I don't know about compost and how that relates to this thread- unless you are short silver, in which case you might become the compost.
Otherwise, the offers have been absorbed with a fierce bid appetite on silver.

[Treetop]

sorry jonflyfisf... im the one who took it off your intended topic....

[Jonflyfish]

Np Treetop. Interesting material nonetheless.
Silver has been clearing out the offers like clockwork and now looks bid strong.

[AGCoinHunter]

Big jump today in AG. Wonder if the bottom was realized and its pushing up into the mid 30's this time.

Along the lines of what Treetop was talking about, I suggest you guys see the movie "The Road" Saw it the other day, very very disturbing.

[JJM]

That was a nice floor around $29. I look for a price beatdown for the closeout of the year on the 31st, if not, it's going to be all the more bullish into the Spring. Regardless, I think we'll be testing $35 before summer.

[Rodebaugh]

That was a nice floor around $29. I look for a price beatdown for the closeout of the year on the 31st, if not, it's going to be all the more bullish into the Spring. Regardless, I think we'll be testing $35 before summer.

yep....I am 100% on board with this one.

[aristobolus]

QE2 working as designed! Inflation nation!