We always mention that we hand sort, but it's never really been discussed how and/or what methods people use. I'd like to start a new thread where people can give and take and learn how others hand sort, what they look for and how you can improve their method or maybe even alter it altogether. A lot of us here at RC are not at the Ryedale level yet, so hand sorting is still applicable. If you have an interest in hand-sorting, you'll read this. If not, you won't.
What follows is my method. I'm looking to share with others here, as well as learn from others on how I can improve my method. Or, perhaps I'm missing something altogether and that you can share with me this new bit of info.
Equipment: Fold-up laptop table for my lap, comfy couch, 6x generic/crap magnifier, 10x good coin magnifier, powder-free vinyl gloves, one bright overhead 100W lamp pointed in my direction. One handwritten sheet which contains a list of Dansco needs (missing coins), upgrade needs (have Dansco coin but it's crap), keeper coins (for slab or re-sale) and a list of errors (Wheat & Memorial) to look for. One box for the junk zincolns. A large clean white soft kitchen towel covers the 3' by 2' laptop table. A pair of gloves will usually last me for two sittings of maybe 20-40 rolls before they start splitting.
OK, here we go....once the roll is busted open, I immediately pull all BU coins and near-perfect coins and look at them (about 10-15 per roll). I pull these right away, as this is my best opportunity to get a BU coin un-scratched. Keepers include BU 1950s & 60s coins, 2009/2010 coins with no spots. A quick check for errors (more on this later). All that takes less than a minute. Most go directly to the zinc pile.
Now the bulk of the roll...all heads face up to begin. Coppers to the left, all 1982s and unreadable coins to the right (will weigh them later to confirm copper content). Wheats, Canadians and other keepers go to the bottom of the table. Potential error coins go to the top to be looked at after the bulk of the roll is gone. All the rest go to the zinc pile box. OK, now it's time to look at the error potentials. Most people don't look for errors, but I look for the following errors: 83 DD Reverse, 84 Doubled Ear, 92/92D Close AM (very rare), 95 DDO, 98/99/00 Wide AM (all rare but you can find them). At this time, I also check for errors on any Wheats that were pulled.
All of this takes 4.5 minutes to 6 minutes per roll. Again, coppers left, 82s right, possible error coins above, keepers on the bottom. Keepers are checked against the Dansco penny albums to either fill a slot/hole or for a potential upgrade of an existing coin.
Moving on....once all CWR rolls have been done this way, I then weigh the 82/82D/unreadable pile. Hey, the crap or unreadables are still copper, as long as they weigh 3.1 grams, right? That's the way I look at it. Coppers are kept, zincs are dumped. Now that I have a proper count, the total count of Coppers, Wheats, CDN and other oddities go in my Excel spreadsheet. I do this so that I can not only check my percentages, but to see which bank consistently is giving me a better or worse percentage! (Feel free to offer bank advise if you have any)
Last step. This is something that most don't do. From my newly formed coppers pile: I pull all perfect brown patina 1959-1969 coins with absolutely no dirt/gunk of any kind; they must be beautiful or they get tossed. Part of me says that someday, I will do another Dansco album, but maybe with only beautiful brown coins such as these 60s coins; or perhaps sell them by the roll. I also pull all 1968-1974 S-Mints (clean or unclean). Finally, I check the coppers for errors: 1960 D/D, 1961D, 1970S, 1972 DDO.
Get up, stretch my neck, get some tea/espresso/cappucino. I hate the neck problems. Any idea on how to improve this? I'm always straining my neck to read the coins (even with magnifying glass).
All coins that will go in the Dansco albums get placed in warm water (only water!) for 30 minutes, then dried and rubbed very softly with soft white towel and only for five seconds or less. I don't want to 'clean' them, remove any patina and ruin any numismatic value. This is mainly to remove any loose dirt. I also do not even use the water method for any coins that I think I may want to sell. (feel free to comment on my water method or amount of time in water. I think I need more knowledge in this area) I only use a new clean glove for this step.
So there you go! That's my method. If you actually read this far, then I'm very impressed. Either you have a lot of time on your hands, are a genuine hand sorter, or both. Anyway, thanks for reading.
OK, your turn! I'm looking forward to your replies.