Nickelless wrote:It might be good to go easy on the tuna and load up on canned chicken instead--chicken doesn't have the mercury risk that tuna has, since tuna are near the top of the fish food chain and have mercury and other toxins accumulate in their tissues.
but tuna is cheaper than canned chicken! i might be a little off, but at a ratio of 2.5:1!
Nickelless wrote:And as far as canning, check out some of my food-dehydration posts both here and on SurvivalPrep.net. Dehydration will greatly extend the shelf life of food, shrink the amount of space that food takes up and--the biggest selling point, IMO--you aren't going to have to worry about losing the vacuum seal on jars of dehydrated food and thus running the risk of botulism. I've been recommending the Nesco brand of dehydrators to people for a long time--I have 12 of them (well, 10 that are working well and two that are starting to die from old age). PM me if you'd like help getting started with dehydration.
is there a particular nesco model you use?
Nickelless wrote:Also, it'd probably be much more cost-effective if you get a vacuum sealer (I bought the Snorkel-Vac model from Sorbent Systems) and lots of mylar bags. A couple weeks ago I bought almost 60 pounds of oats from Walmart for less than $50 and vacuum-sealed the oats in mylar:
If you do your own vacuum-sealing, you can save a TON of money instead of buying already vacuum-sealed cans of dry or dehydrated items.
you can only pack dry items in the mylar bags right? and how much am i looking at for a decent sealer that wont fry on me in the first month?
#10 cans are cool and easily stacked, and according to these labels have a shelf life of 30+ years... but i just looked up the prices of can sealers.... holy sh... tried some of the rice we got from the mormons... we gotta eat that stuff first haha... i like my calrose and jasmine rice. ill store those instead.
what kind of shelf life can you expect from mylar bags and oxygen absorbers?